BATTLE OF THE BULGE: Protein Paradise

Restaurants, supermarkets offering more low-carb items in response to popular diets

By HEIDI KNAPP RINELLA, Wednesday, February 11, 2004, Las Vegas Review-Journal

http://www.reviewjournal.com/lvrj_h...g/23098226.html

[lots of photos of yummy low-carb dishes at the link - gotbeer]

Get 32 million Americans to agree on anything and the gods of capitalism are going to sit up and take notice.

That's how many of us are on low-carb diets, according to an Associated Press report of a Harris Interactive poll from the summer, and the number has probably risen since then.

The effects are being felt across the food-industry landscape. As he announced a wave of layoffs last month, Kraft Chief Executive Officer Roger Deromedi acknowledged that "low-carb diets like Atkins and South Beach, the focus on trans fat, concerns about obesity, and increased demand for organic and natural products are requiring a shift in how we market and what we market."

In many quarters that shift is well under way, bringing a growing number of low-carb food items into venues ranging from family-style chain restaurants to supermarkets.

The diets take many forms. Some people, such as Teri Chinn -- a nurse auditor at MountainView Hospital who has lost 35 pounds -- eschew formal plans and try to cut back on carbs.

"I think it works for me because I can eat without being hungry. ... I just try to make sure that I primarily have proteins. No pasta, no pizza, no rice," she said.

Once, that also meant no choices, beyond the focus on eggs, bacon, beef and cheese originally associated with the Atkins diet.

"Our customers have been requesting this for some time in some form or fashion -- no bun, no baked potato," said Judy Schumacher, spokeswoman for Main Street and Main Inc., owners of the TGI Friday's franchises in Las Vegas. "We've always accommodated that."

But things have gotten easier for low-carb dieters. TGI Friday's features Atkins-approved items on its menu, such as Sizzling Chicken With Broccoli and Sizzling NY Strip with Bleu Cheese. It's "good protein food presented in a real flavorful way," Schumacher said.

It's also presented in a user-friendly way. TGI Friday's lists the number of Atkins net carbs with the menu items.

P.F. Chang's China Bistro has taken a different approach: Its Training Table Menu lists both high-protein/low-carb and low-protein/high-carb options.

Laura Cherry, company spokeswoman, said most of the low-carb options came from the regular menu. In the cases of the Cantonese scallops, Kung Pao Chicken and steamed salmon, she said, "we've seen a huge increase in orders, probably a 7 (percent) to 10 percent increase, which is significant," since the Training Table Menu was implemented.

Blimpie Subs & Salads has a new line of low-carb options. Jeff Endervelt, president and chief executive officer, saw the low-carb movement advance from a fad to the mainstream.

Endervelt himself follows a low-carb diet. His experience motivated him to order a broad array of low-carb foods, comparable in quality to their higher-carb brethren.

Bobby Schnurr, vice president of research and development, also known as the Blimpie "low-carb guru," said his department had "marching orders to develop a whole menu. So we did."

That menu includes salads, chips, sandwiches, drinks and desserts. The chips, formed of soy protein, come in three flavors, Schnurr noted.

"The smoky barbecue and the spicy ranch are my two favorites. The original -- unless you're used to eating soy protein, you want to go with the other flavors," Schnurr said.

They've also developed low-carb bread, using high-wheat-gluten protein extracts.

"The bread was our biggest challenge," Schnurr said. Onion flavoring added flavor but no carbohydrates.

"That one we're really proud of, because it's only 2 carbs per slice," he said. Cinnamon-raisin and pumpernickel rye varieties have been developed as well, and within a few weeks will be available by the loaf in Blimpie's outlets.

Burger spots also are on the low-carb bandwagon. In-N-Out Burger has for some time offered a bunless burger, and Carl's Jr. recently introduced its Low Carb Six Dollar Burger, a lettuce-wrapped version of the sandwich. Some pizza chains and independent operators are introducing low-carb pizza crust and crustless pizzas.

And the supermarket now is a source of ready-made low-carb items in burgeoning profusion. Dannon has introduced Light 'n Fit Carb Control "cultured dairy snack." The Carb Options line includes low-carb versions of such products as Skippy "peanut spread" and Lawry's marinades and barbecue sauce. Michelob was the first to bring us low-carb beer, with Ultra. Skyy Spirits and Miller Brewing Co. have teamed up on Skyy Sport low-carb malt beverage.

7-Eleven has gotten into the act, too, with banners announcing its low-carb offerings, which company field consultant Nikolaas Bos said number nearly 50. They include zero-calorie, zero-sugar Diet Pepsi Slurpees; fat-free French vanilla cappuccino; Atkins-approved ice cream, candy and breakfast bars; low-carb shakes, breakfast bars and other items.

"We continue to look for new items ... working closely with our partners in the field," he said. "Frito-Lay is coming out with items. We're working with them to make sure we're first out with those."

Marsha Gilford, spokeswoman for Smith's Food & Drug stores, said the company has "always had a focus on specialty nutrition items," and the low-carb offerings are an extension of that. She estimates Smith's carries at least 500 low-carb items storewide.

"This is definitely going to be an exploding category," Gilford said. "It's very popular, and I don't see it coming to an end in the near future. We have a very full line and there are more coming in all the time."

Smith's also is developing low-carb items in its own bakery, Gilford said, and uses raspberry-colored signs to point out naturally low-carb produce. The top-selling low-carb items, she said, are bars and shakes, but there's also bread-machine mix, ketchups, barbecue sauce, teriyaki sauce and other products.

Marcy Cevey, category manager for Smith's natural-food department, has lost 60 pounds on the Atkins plan and her husband has lost 65. She said her success has led to many of her colleagues trying it as well.

"The ice cream is a godsend," Cevey said. "The chocolate bars are a godsend. They're testing low-carb pastas. If you're a pasta lover, you're not going to be satisfied with what's currently out there. This new launch should turn that around."

While she concedes that the early Atkins breads left much to be desired, "some of the breads they're coming out with now -- Sara Lee and Orowheat -- the texture is a lot better," Cevey said. "I think they're getting better all the time."

Which only makes sense, considering how many people are trying low-carb diets.

"Today's business world is very competitive," said Bos of 7-Eleven. "If you don't change with what the customer is going to buy, you're basically selling yourself out of business. We definitely want to make sure from a company standpoint to give the customer what they want."